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Slippery Elm and Marshmallow – a little differential Posted on January 13, 2017 Yesterday, a member of my Facebook group asked a simple question, and it prompted this post. In keeping with my commitment to adding shorter but still detailed articles, I thought I’d elaborate my answer here for those who need it. And since digestive issues in dogs are so common, that may mean, any of you. Here’s what my Friend asked: “Just a quick question that I have come across a few times , regarding Gut issues , some people say Marshmallow in the long run is better than using Slippery Elm … would appreciate any comments thanks “ I posted a quickie answer on my Page here https://www.facebook.com/ThePossibleCanine/ But really, there’s more to explore, so here’s a little overview of these two enormously useful herbs, their actions (similar and unique) applications and why you really want to have both on hand, for our own use as well as with cats and dogs. First, Slippery Elm (Ulmus rubra). This wonderful plant medicine has become one of the most popular go-to herbs for canine gastric issues, and with good reason. The medicinal part is the dried and powdered inner bark, and the applications are many. Energetically this Elm is sweet, moist and neutral (not as cool as Mallow) and it is a first choice demulcent herb – which means, it contains a high amount of mucilage, a type of polysaccharide that becomes viscous in water, and serves to coat, soothe and protect inflamed tissues, whether inside the body or out. Slippery elm is also astringent, meaning it not only soothes and moistens tissue, but gently tightens and tonifies it as well, making it a better choice for diarrhea than mallow. Elm is also nutritive, although we generally don’t rely on herbs to supply essentials in the canine diet, I have used elm in gruels for very ill dogs that needed any source we could get into them, in several cases dogs recovering from toxin ingestion. Topically, slippery elm (and the less widely used Siberian version) are wonderful poultices for boils and abscesses, to help draw infection to a head and drain.
Next – Marshmallow (Althea officinalis) is an amazing demulcent as well, with up to 35% mucilage in the root – and the leaf is useful as well especially for the urinary tract (I tend to use both in my formulations for UTI and other ladder/urethral conditions). Mallow is also mildly diuretic, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, expectorant and hypoglycemic (the leaf). Mallows (wild mallows are interchangeable, but you must identify them with 100% certainty if you plan to harvest and prepare on your own) are lovely gentle plants whose actions are especially helpful with stomach issues such as acid reflux, and I include mallow in many respiratory formulas, where there is heat and dryness, or heavy, “stuck” mucus that needs to be moved. Since these actions obviously overlap, how to decide when to use which? Well, first off, they can be used interchangeably – I use both Slippery elm and Marshmallow root for my own bouts of GERD ( can no longer drink wine, sadly without quite horrible reflux) and both help, for example. Both herbs serve to soothe, strengthen and tonify mucus membranes internally and soothe skin as well. But ,as we’ve seen, there are differences – with dogs, here’s what I would suggest. Marshmallow is especially indicated for urinary tract conditions, is important in respiratory formulations and is my first choice for many upper gastric inflammations. I use mallow root with kennel cough, with tracheal collapse, with mega-esophagus, with gastritis and reflux (which can often occur secondary the veterinary medications). I use the root and leaf with cystitis, bladder cancer and along with other herbs for incontinence, especially when there is burning around the vulva related to urine leaks. Mallow root is a specific for any kind of urolith, all stones and crystals. Topically I like it whenever there is slow healing after an injury or infection.
Elm is a go-to for some types of diarrhea, especially when it has been an acute infection that has just passed and the dog is on the mend, or with a food intolerance issue (obviously, you can’t clear up food intolerance with any treatment, not elm, pumpkin or probiotics, but you can ease symptoms, and there is much to be said for that) and for topical use with infection that has not come to the surface and drained. Elm is wonderful with IBD, to help heal the intestinal lining, and I find it works much as pumpkin does, to normalize bowel function, so it is useful with either diarrhea or constipation. Made into a gruel, slippery elm’s unique nutritive properties make it a helpful food for debilitated dogs, dogs recovering from surgery, or post-toxin ingestion, or in palliative care. Note that elm is one of the four original ingredients in ESSIAC tea, and has long been considered to have anti-cancer actions. I tend to use elm in cancer protocols only if called for by symptoms, but it’s certainly true this herb has longstanding traditional use and may well have actions outside of what I have described here. I have, rarely, seen dogs who developed loose stool with even moderate amounts of elm (my own very sensitive Ridgeback Danny is one) so I recommend starting small when administering for the first time. Which brings us to… Preparation and Dosing As a general rule, mucilaginous herbs do best when prepared as a cold infusion – in other words, steeped in cool water, instead of the more usual hot. With both these herbs in powdered form, a little goes a long way – I use a teaspoon in 8 ounces of water and get a very thick, slimy end product. This viscous gel can then be added to the food, or mixed with other herbs, or administered in a little bone broth or tripe, between meals., I especially recommend this latter method if you are adding meds of any kind to the food. Since both are mucilaginous, theoretically they can interfere with absorption of medication, so give either one at least 2 hours after administering meds. If you give the meds separately from food, then it’s fine to stir your gel into the meal. These are both extremely safe herbs, that can be used as foods, but it’s still possible that a dog can react to one or the other (as with anything) so it makes sense to start small and build the dose up to your goal. (You may have heard to to use elm with dogs who have environmental allergies, but that’s really too vague, many dogs can and do benefit from slippery elm despite multiple allergies. It depends on what, precisely, the dog is allergic to). Think about 1/4 cup per 20 pounds bodyweight divided into three servings per day. Use more if needed and less if in formula. Lastly – if you weren’t aware, please take note that Slippery elm is listed as “at-risk” now, and should always be purchased via an ethical company such as Mountainrose Herbs. For more information on at-risk and endangered plant species, check out (and support!) United Plant savers here: https://www.unitedplantsavers.org/species-at-risk And I hope that helps a little – look for more from me on all the herbs we discuss, in future articles and publications. And feel free to ask questions here, I do my best to get back to everyone.
Posted in Blog, Herbs for Dogs | 4 Comments
Pet Blogger Challenge 2017 Posted on January 8, 2017 1. When did you start your blog and, for anyone who is just seeing it for first time, please provide a description of your site. Would you say your blog focuses more on sharing stories with your readers, or providing a resource for your audience? Answer: This version of my blog was launched in 2011, but I started originally in 2006, on a different site. I focus on nutrition and herbal medicine for dogs, with a view to providing balanced and comprehensive information – grounded in science, but open to trends and innovative ideas. As an herbalist, I have a deep commitment to sharing the depth of the Western Herbal Tradition, in particular. It’s much more a resource than a story-sharing place, but I might incorporate more personal stories in the year ahead. 2. What was your proudest blogging moment of 2016? Answer: I’d probably say that all my Plant Healer Magazine articles are entries I’m proud of, as they are quite indepth and have brought herbalism to a broader audience, and opened eyes to just how rich the Western tradition really is. I was a little slack in 2016, with a lot going on elsewhere, but my readers have been patient. I appreciate that immensely.
3. Which of your blog posts was your favorite this year and why? (Please include a link.) Answer: I’d say, this one,which introduces my online herbal course. The course is a real labour of love and brings together over two decades of herbal study and work with dogs in particular, and I love teaching it. http://www.thepossiblecanine.com/practical-herbalism-for-common-canine-conditions 4. Year after year, one goal that we all seem to share is that we want to reach more people. What one tool did you use or action did you take this year that had the most impact on increasing traffic to your blog? Answer: Oh – probably Facebook! I have a Page where I share herbal tidbits and great posts from other animal professionals (and cute puppy pictures too) as well as a Group, Canine Nutrition and Natural Health, which is lively, friendly and balanced. So probably Facebook! Fun, and a little addictive, but reaches a lot of people. I’m not very computer-savvy, but working on Pinterest as well.
5. Which of your blog posts got the most traffic this year? (Please include a link.) Have you noticed any themes across your most popular posts? Answer: This year, and all time, my most popular entry was on feeding the inappetant dog: http://www.thepossiblecanine.com/inappetance at about 23,000 views for 2016. When I checked other popular entries, they’re all nutrition focused – the debate about feeding vegetables, all about types of liver and diet for dogs with cancer. Suggests more people come to TPC for nutrition advice than for herbal, but I knew that.
6. What blog do you find most inspirational and how has it influenced your blog? (Please include a link.) Answer: Honestly I don’t follow many dog blogs, I do very much enjoy Linda Case’s The Science Dog https://thesciencedog.wordpress.com/ which led me to this Challenge. I follow many herbal blogs – too many to list – but I’ve been inspired by Rosalee de la Foret’s super well organized site http://www.herbalremediesadvice.org 7. What is one thing your readers don’t know about you or your pets that would surprise them? Answer: A toughie, because I’m pretty open about who I am, on my Timeline for example, it’s an open book. Maybe …. if you only read my blog and don’t know me from FB, that I am as passionate about other species as I am dogs – and future blogs will reflect that. I’m advancing studies in feline, equine and avian nutrition, and my herbal practise is open to humans as well. I have snakes, an African Grey Parrot, and a blind Paint horse, as well as multiple cats and dogs. I’m basically desperate to acquire goats. I also plan to complete my degree in Comparative Religion, one of these days.
8. What is something you’ve learned this year that could help other bloggers? Answer: While there is definitely a preference for shorter, sound-bite-ish entries, there is also a real need for depth. If you can make it engaging, and well organized, you can hold attention. But don’t feel you have to sensationalize everything. I’m focusing on a series of shorter articles this year, on many of the popular/trendy supplements, for example, but also have some longer entries already planned. If it’s 10,000 words, though – that’s an E-booklet. And now, to follow my own advice…:) 9. What would you like to accomplish on your blog in 2017? Answer: Just to reach more readers, and post more frequently. I have multiple projects on the go this year, including publishing several E-booklets, completing my Master Herbalist thesis (on canine cancer) and moving my three online courses to a more sophisticated platform…there *may* be videos. I aim to keep the standards high but the entries accessible. And, remember to always have fun with it. Sometimes I get too serious.
10. Now it’s your turn! You have the attention of the pet blogging community – is there a question you’d like answered, or an aspect of your blog that you’d like input on? Answer: If I could ask anything, it would be, what do readers want to see more of? And, do I just possibly have too many Ridgebacks on the site? Thank you for this opportunity and Happy New Year, all!
Powered by Linky Tools Click here to enter your link and view this Linky Tools list… Posted in Blog, Uncategorized | 5 Comments
Kelp for Dogs- the Good, the Bad, and the Mumbo Jumbo Posted on January 5, 2017 Happy New Year to my friends and readers, I am looking forward to a great year ahead, after what many described as an Annus Horribilus — 2016! One of the comments I’ve received a lot, about this blog, in email and on my Facebook group, is that my entries are “amazingly informative” (blush) but sometimes a lot to take in, and that shorter, more frequent offerings would be appreciated. Ok, then – I can do that! Something that comes up a lot on my radar is this idea of “Superfoods” – and like many trendy, popular-nutrition concepts, Superfoods have both merit and drawbacks. Most of the popular trends you will read about, from turmeric to coconut oil to goat’s milk, are based on some really good, factual ideas – but then become sensationalized, in order to be more widely marketed, and sometimes to the point of nonsense. This happens within the herbal world – as a clinical herbalist, of course I know that all the “Herbs of Commerce” are wonderful, useful and important to know and work with – but they can all be misused – underdosed, used as panaceas when other herbs would have been preferable, given in a form that is not well absorbed, or a formulation that is not energetically balanced…they are great allies, but not panaceas. Most Herbs of Commerce – think Milk thistle, Slippery elm, Chamomile, Echinacea – offer applications well beyond that one condition they’re marketed for – and all have limitations when used in an allopathic fashion, in other words as a more natural replacement for a veterinary drug. My hope is that by taking a well-rounded look at all of these foods and supplements, as well as my ongoing herbal monographs and articles, readers will grow more aware of the true range of options available to them, and think of both so-called Superfoods and Herbs of Commerce as having pros and cons – thus offering a much wider spectrum of possibility when looking at support for all kinds of health challenges. I’m going to be posting, over the winter, about bone broth, goat’s milk/kefir, coconut oil, turmeric, cinnamon, apple cider vinegar and more. I feel I can offer a little more insight and balance to the material already posted everywhere, about these helpful, but not panacaea, foods, herbs and supplements.
Today, after reading a recent post recommending that people give kelp to dogs just… across the board, claiming benefits for it that vastly exceed what it actually offers, and omitting information about iodine content, thyroid health and more – I decided to start with kelp. Adding kelp to the canine diet has been around for a while now. When I started my research in this work, back in the 90s, it was common to see kelp (along with flaxseed, Vitamin C and assorted other goodies not quite so popular these days) added to all home made diets, irrespective of the content of the recipes. More recently, astute home feeders have come to realize this is not the best practise, and I hear about adding kelp to kibble (a big nono) much less frequently. But the idea still pops up here and there…so let’s take a look at the facts about adding kelp to a canine diet. First; please bear in mind, sites that list great litanies of amazing claims about ANY supplement really are questionable. Kelp doesn’t work as a panacea for a million health issues and it can actually create some, if unthinkingly added. What kelp will do, and yes I make use of it in many home made diets, is contribute iodine to the diet. (Note that if you feed a quality commercial food, the iodine will be factored in already, so to add more can lead to hypothyroidism, which we will get to in a moment). Now, what does iodine do, and what foods is it found in? Iodine is a non-metallic trace element , which is essential in the diet for the health and correct function of the thyroid gland. Commercial foods will have added adequate levels to meet requirements, I’m saying it again – more is not better! Seafood is the best dietary source, and many foods we humans consume are supplemented with iodine, but these (milk, bread) are not regularly fed to dogs as part of their home made diet and basing a whole canine diet around seafood is not a good idea either.. So, home made diets can be quite low in iodine, and over time, this can contribute to the development of thyroid dysfunction. HOWEVER – adding too much kelp can also backfire badly and contribute to the development of hypothyroidism in dogs – yep, this is one of those nutrients we want to do our best to get just right, in the diet. Here’s Dr. Jean Dodds, world renowned thyroid specialist, on the importance of correct iodine intake: “….excessive iodine supplementation can result in the overproduction of the T4 and T3 in dogs and cats, which triggers unintended cascading effects: in dogs, the immune system may wind up attacking the thyroid gland (producing excessive amounts of thyroglobulin autoantibody) which end up suppressing thyroid levels and causing the very hypothyroidism it was meant to prevent; whereas in cats, the overdosing can result in overt hyperthyroidism.” http://drjeandoddspethealthresource.tumblr.com/post/90858101671/kelp-thyroid#.WG2ahVz9nps So, when home feeding a dog, how do we get it right? A dogs’ requirement for iodine is easy to calculate; by using the method described elsewhere on this blog, take the dog’s weight in kilograms to the power 0.75 and you will have what we think of as the Metabolic Weight. To find your dog’s iodine requirement, or more correctly his recommended Allowance, you multiply the Metabolic Weight by 29.6. So, a quick example. My dog Danny weighs 85 pounds. That’s 38.55 kgs. Taken then to the power of 0.75, we get the number 15.47, which is his metabolic weight, or MW. Multiply 15.47 by 29.6, we get 458 mcgs, which can be rounded up to between 460 and 500 mcgs – daily. That’s our goal, and we need to meet it on a consistent basis. The next step is to assess what’s actually in the food, so we don’t oversupplement. Now, it’s not the easiest thing, to calculate the actual amount of iodine in the diet, mostly because most software/the USDA database don’t actually provide levels in foods. We have to use a general idea of which foods contain how much (there’s a link at the bottom of this entry) and make a calculation. I’m going into this much more deeply in the E-booklet, but trust me when I say that most recipes come up low. Simply put, they need some iodine. And while not the only way to provide it – some sensitive dogs do better with non-kelp sources – many dogs do well with kelp added to bring the iodine up to desired levels. But – and here’s the rub – it’s not as simple as adding a “teaspoon of kelp for a medium dog and two teaspoons for larger ones” etc. There are a couple of things to take into consideration, and they are super important….you’ve stuck with me this far, so here’s the takeaway message.
If you use kelp to supplement iodine in the diet, which in my opinion is the ONLY reason to use it, make good and sure that the product you add identifies the actual iodine content of the capsules or loose powder, on the label. In putting this entry together I evaluated 16 products, and found a huge range of iodine content – from as low as 225 mcgs per capsule to as high as 780 (!) and many that were completely lacking in nutritional information of any kind. If you are going to add kelp, you need to know the iodine content! This is foundational – and then, we have to consider the potential for seaweed in this day and age to be contaminated. Heavy metals in particular, can accumulate in sea weeds, so you need a pure source, or you are better off using iodine drops. I’ll be going into this in more detail in the Supplements E-booklet later this year. Iodine must be supplied in the diet, whether cooked or raw, if you are making your own food. While kelp contains very, very small amounts of other vitamins and minerals, none are present in amounts high enough to make a meaningful contribution to a diet (and it certainly doesn’t provide VitaminD3, as one site actually claimed) And some, such as iron, are in a very poorly absorbed form (non-heme). Don’t rely on kelp for significant nutrient value outside of iodine, and make sure you get that one right. Note that kelp itself can promote itching in some dogs and you may need to work with a pure source of iodine, too. Any questions? I’ll be happy to clarify. Iodine content of some foods: https://ods.od.nih.gov/factsheets/Iodine-HealthProfessional/#h3
Posted in Blog, Canine Nutrition | 10 Comments
Paw Wax for Dogs – my version, and a few little pointers Posted on December 31, 2016 So, this time of year always brings out a few recipes for home made “wax” that can be applied to a dog’s paws and act as a barrier against cold, salt and gritty stuff during walks in the cold wintertime. I make this stuff every year too, with a few of my own twists, so just decided to share in case anyone wants to try my version. Before I start, a couple of (maybe obvious?) ideas, but worth mentioning anyway; always trim your dog’s feet, if he or she has long hairs between the toes. Furry toes “collect” ice and snow (and more noxious stuff on roads, such as antifreeze) and can get very packed up. The second thing is, booties! For dogs exposed to a lot of harsh terrain and chemicals, no paw wax on earth is enough to keep pads safe and toes clear of the stuff. If your dog needs booties – that’s the way to go. No, not like these.
This is better.
For many others, either the exposure is minimal, or it’s just a matter of cold toes on the snowy ground, and for these guys, a paw wax can be of help. For those of you who already make herbal salves (waves to students), the technique is pretty much the same, with a few changes. You start with a carrier oil, infuse a herb (or a few) into it, and then strain out the herbal matter. Now you have a nice herbal oil, which you mix with beeswax, add a natural preservative ( I use Vitamin E) and let harden. Voila! Paw wax! All you *really* need to do is, use more beeswax than the standard amount used for salves. Let me be more specific. First: many people who read the most popular of the Paw Wax memes this year wrote me to ask about herbal oils. It’s understandable – we have oils such as Evening Primrose and Borage which seem like herbal oils, but then we have all these others, like calendula oil, chamomile oil, or the oils I use in my recipe (conifer needles/resin…orange peel…ginger…) and these are an entirely different type of oil. Borage, Evening primrose, along with apricot, almond, olive, sunflower, grapeseed, avocado and more are carrier oils – not herbal infused oils, these form the basis for infused oils which in turn can be used as they are, or made into salve.(Infused oils should never be fed to dogs). Here is a list of carrier oils from the wonderful Mountainrose Herbs: https://www.mountainroseherbs.com/catalog/ingredients/oils Note the beautiful options such as pomegranate,macadamia, rosehip seed…I make my own face creams and lotions and I love using these, for rich and exotic skin soothers – mixed with herbs, with shea or mango butter, coconut oil and some essential oils – beautiful and non-toxic products! However, I don’t use these expensive oils for pad wax. Call me pragmatic, or even frugal. Olive and sunflower oils are my favorites, and I’ll share some information about different types of carrier oils and why they’re used, in another post. For now, just to make the distinction clear, carrier oils and herbalinfused oils are not the same thing. Herbal oils, are what you create when you infuse your herbs of choice into your oil of choice, and the possibilities are endless. There are, however, better and worse choices, depending on what you wish to extract, what the end product will be used for and with dogs, how much is likely to get consumed. Because the answer to that last one is usually “a fair bit” I stay away from essential oils, and focus on herbs that won’t upset the tummy if licked off. And the basic method options for making a herbal oil, are two; stovetop or maceration method. There are pros and cons to both….and here is all you do. 1. Select your carrier oil (and you can use a blend, too, but add the delicate ones like rosehip seed at the end of the process) and your herbs.You don’t need to be super precise here, some herbalists insist on using the same amount of herbs as oil, but I find that too much. I pick my herbs and eyeball it from there, for recipes like this. 2. Measure 8 fluid ounces of oil 3. Decide if you want to use the maceration method(long infusion over at least 4 weeks) or you want the oil faster(you’re using the stove top method to have it ready much sooner). 4. Place the herbs in a sterilized jar if using the maceration method, and stir in the oil with a chopstick, or a sterilized knife or spoon . Because herbs will swell up when infused, don’t fill the jar more than 2/3 of the way, but it really depends on the herb. Some herbs are very fine and heavy and others, like the pine needles and twigs I used in my paw wax, are more voluminous.You want room for them to swell, and you don’t want pesto. That’s about as precise as I get with oils for external usage.(Fresh herbs are a whole different story, we’ll talk about them in another post) Label your jar – you will regret it if you don’t, I promise! and place in a dark cupboard for a few weeks. (No hard and fast rules here either, but check it and give a shake periodically). Some herbalists use the sunny-window method, but that’s running a higher risk of mold and so I don’t do it that way anymore. 5. Place the oil in the top of a double boiler or stainless steel bowl if using the water-bath (stovetop) method, and stir in the herb. Here’s what mine looked like at this point:
..and so now, you need to raise the heat so your herbs don’t get hotter than 110 degrees F, which means you need to set the water (my bowl here went over a large pot of simmering water, and was covered with a loose fitting lid) on medium, let it get hot and then turn the heat down, and watch it! If it gets too hot you run the risk of frying your herbs(unpleasant!) or all the water boils out and you have a burned pot. I simmered mine for about 8 hours, left overnight and then simmered again for maybe 2 hours the second day. As long as you don’t scorch anything, you can heat them up to 3 days. But even 6 hours will release a lot of good medicine. (Note: all resinous herbs, such as pine or other conifers, poplar or calendula, should be infused with some heat if possible.) The next step is the same whether you let your oil macerate for a month, or heat it up in 8 hours; strain out the plant material, and measure the oil you have left. I use a sieve lined with cheesecloth:
and voila! herbal oil. From here you can use the oil on it’s own, for massage, or as the basis of any number of lotions, serums, salve or in this case, paw wax. For the making of the wax, I used 8 ounces of my oil with 2 ounces beeswax. I saw recipes that called for THREE ounces beeswax, to six ounces oil – but that’s overkill in my opinion. I used two ounces (which is pretty standard) and the wax is super hard. You can use more if you wish, but I don’t find it necessary. Also, I don’t cut up my knuckles grating beeswax anymore. I use these, and boy are they handy:
Now all you do is, gently heat the herbal oil with the beeswax – 8 ounces oil to 2 ounces wax pellets – gently until the wax melts. remove from heat, add a few Vitamin E capsules(I used 6 here, squeezed out please, not the gel cap and all!) and pour the warm oil into jars or molds. I normally use amber jars or tins from a number of suppliers, but for this batch I used the special plastic lids you get for making infused vinegars, and a simple large lid from a jar. They looked like this:
..and are very fragrant and hard! If you have a dog who tolerates rubbing the disc right on their paw, a large lid will be great.For dogs who need the wax applied, a la salve, you’ll need to dig a little into this one, as it’s very firm, but you also can’t apply softer salve or you risk causing the dog to slip. Either way, this recipe smells divine, and it does help protect their precious feet in harsh weather. My ingredients were 8 ounces sunflower oil…. and a mixture of dried (organic, all) ginger, orange peel, pine needles cut from my own tree (and a few finely chopped twigs) and about a teaspoon of juniper berries. I choose this combo to smell lovely, and be warming to the pads as well. Now I have more than I’ll ever need, so I’m applying it to my chapped hands as well. It’s wonderful stuff. Some other herbs to try include other conifers (but not cedar) thyme, calendula, lavender, cinnamon sticks, and yarrow. For slave, for chapped, dry pads, you can make the balm softer, use 1.5 ounces beeswax, and think about herbs like chickweed, rose, violet and plantain as well (more cooling and vulnerary). Of course, if you prefer you can also purchase herbal oils that have been made for you, too. https://www.mountainroseherbs.com/catalog/health/herbal-oils I hope this helps give you a bit more information and some ideas, about making paw wax for your dog.I’ll be providing more mini-tutorials over the year ahead, and if you’re really keen, there’s always my Practical Herbalism course, which includes 70 recipes, a detailed Unit on medicine making, and much, much more. http://www.thepossiblecanine.com/practical-herbalism-an-online-course And, have a very, very Happy New Year.
h Posted in Blog, Recipes | 3 Comments
Holiday Recipes Part Two – Gingerbread cookies Posted on December 24, 2016 Hello all, and a very happy Holiday to everyone! Whatever you celebrate (and tonight is Christmas Eve) I hope this season finds you well, hopeful, healthy and at peace. I and my little zoo here in the Gatineau Hills are enjoying a respite from the extreme cold, and some happy, lazy, playful downtime as well. 2016 was a heck of a year, for the world at large, for so many of my friends, clients, students. Don’t we all need a little ease about now?
A couple of days ago I promised another little recipe for the season. Now I admit, I don’t do nearly as much baking as I once did, but when this time of year draws nigh, I have a few favorites I make for the humans in this household…cranberry/chocolate tart (a Lucy Waverman recipe I’ve made and cherished for 30 years)…sticky toffee pudding…Christmas morning pecan rolls…I like to bake, I just don’t need the carbs on a regular basis… and my dogs? Their usual treats consist of Kongs stuffed with mixtures of sweet potato, quinoa, ground meats, assorted antioxidant-rich veggies and herbs, and pieces of egg or chicken. They always have some plain yogurt, and I make up a batch of high protein biscuits from time to time. At Christmas, I feel the need to make gingerbread cookies…for the dogs. Zeke, watching me bake. Zeke loves gingerbread anything.
But here’s the thing. I work, as regular readers here know, in part as a nutritionist for dogs. My focus is on therapeutic nutrition, the formulation of individual recipes for dogs with all kinds of conditions, some that need very carefully calibrated nutrients and some who need more general, but always optimized dietary support. My clients have dogs with atopy, with renal failure, with cancer, with various bladder stones, liver disease, IBD and more. And these guys, too, need to have treats, despite often very strict dietary guidelines. Often they cannot have anything with gluten; or they’re okay with barley but not wheat; or they need lower fat, or restricted phosphorus… low fat, egg-free, all kinds of variations. And to that end, I am going to release a baked treats and cookies e-book in the New year, because really there is such a need. For today, I wanted to offer a classic holiday favorite – the gingerbread cookie – with a few variations. Nothing complicated, and the dogs just love them all. Season’s greetings, all. Basic Gingerbread Cookies These are fairly high fat, at 31%. For dogs with no issues with wheat, eggs or moderate fat, they’re great. Variations to follow. Ingredients 2 large eggs 3 Tbsps coconut oil 1/4 molasses 2 Tbsps honey 2 1/2 cups spelt flour 1 Tbsp dried organic ginger 1 tsp powdered “true” cinnamon (Cinnamomum verum)
To make this recipe, simply beat your two eggs, and add the molasses and honey – blend in melted (but not hot) coconut oil. Then stir both spices into the flour and beat the dry mixture into the wet, about a half cup at a time.If it starts to get too stiff, add a little hot water ( 1/8 to 1/4 cup). Blend vigorously until a smooth dough is formed, then refrigerate about a half hour for ease of handling. When the dough feels ready to handle, turn it out onto a floured surface and knead a few turns, then roll out to about 1/4 inch thickness. At this point you can use any cookie cutters you like to make the cookie shapes, and then place them on a baking sheet lined with parchment. Bake about 15 minutes at 375 degrees, cool on a rack and serve. To make a low fat, egg free version of this recipe, substitute one mashed banana and three Tbsps applesauce for the eggs and oil. Doing this reduces the fat content from 31% to just 4%. To make it glutenfree, use rice flour in place of the spelt. You can use rice flour with a bit of coconut flour, say 2 cups rice and 1/2 cup coconut. Add dried cranberries if your dog enjoys them, or blueberries, or dates – but no raisins. This recipe , like the meatloaf ideas, is a flexible treat option that can accommodate a number of special needs. And look for my e-book next year, with many more options to explore. Have a beautiful holiday with your beloved dogs.
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Calendula for dogs Posted on December 23, 2016 Over the past week I have had a flood of emails asking about calendula, a wonderful and easy-to-grow herb that I utilize in many ways, for both topical and internal issues, for humans, canines, and other species.. The biggest question in my Inbox right now- is it safe? And the answer is yes, it’s a very safe herb, although any plant can theoretically cause an allergic reaction and it’s always wise to do a small skin test before applying something new, just in case. I’ve seen one reaction to calendula in 25 years, an outbreak of hives on one of my Ridgebacks after I did a finishing rinse based on calendula. But overall it’s very safe to use topically and internally, and provides a range of actions that go well beyond it’s popular application as a skinsoother/wound healer (vulnerary). Since I’ve been asked about this so much, here’s a little bit of information for you.
Calendula (Calendula officinalis) Family: Asteraceae Parts used: flowers, including green calyx (using just the petals is much weaker medicine) Actions: vulnerary, lymphatic decongestant, antifungal, antiseptic, cholagogue, astringent,emmenagogue Energetics: neutral to warm, mildly drying Indications: Topically; wounds, rashes, ulcers (internal and external) as a rinse for conjunctivitis, as an oil to swab in inflamed ears or gums; Internally for IBD, all kinds of colitis, fungal and bacterial infection; post-infection as a lymphatic decongestant or for lingering low grade infection(excellent with dental issues) mild cholagogue especially useful with poor fat digestion and constipation, flavonoid content supports venous and capillary integrity; useful with cancer where there is gastric distress and/or bleeding Constituents: Saponins, flavonoids (most wellknown of these include quercetin and rutin) resin, terpenoids, taraxerol, mucilage Calendula is native to Europe but widely cultivated in North America, both for the beauty of the plant in a garden setting, and of course, the many medicinal uses. Calendula is one of the easiest-to-grow medicinal herbs and is so versatile in its healing properties I would have to list it on my own Top Ten herbs, if I were forced to limit myself so much! It’s important to use the whole flower head with the green base attached, especially with internal use. High quality calendula is also widely available from Harmonic Arts in Canada, from suppliers such as Mountainrose Herbs, Starwest, Jean’s Greens and Frontier in the US. Note that it’s important to make the distinction between true calendula, which is sometimes referred to as “pot marigold” – the familiar marigold of many gardens and window pots is an entirely different species (Tagetes). Tagetes species do have some medicinal actions, but are not interchangeable with Calendula.
French Marigold, Tagetes patula
Calendula officinalis Calendula tea is commonly used to help ease peptic ulcers, IBD and a whole array of canine digestive complaints. I often include calendula in protocols for dogs with leaky gut, to help heal and tonify the whole digestive tract. Whole fresh flowers can be added to food to help maintain a healthy gut and for the rich antioxidant content. Topically, which is where it is most popularly utilized, think about use with hot spots, dermatitis of all kinds, seborrhea, yeast infections, compresses for mouth ulcers/gingivitis, poultice or salve with mastitis; infused oil is great mixed with mullein for ear infection or as base for all purpose salve; internally , calendula is important to help support the body dealing with any lingering infection, and is a superb digestive ally, offering the soothing action inside the body that we see externally, but also helping to remove toxins and support digestion, particularly of fats, as we see in many cases of chronic constipation and IBD. Calendula combines especially nicely with Chamomile, Marshmallow root (Althea officinalis) and/or licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) for stomach inflammation; I like it combined with Saint John’s wort, Plantain and Rose for topical use; pairing it with Agrimony (Agrimonia eupatoria), Marshmallow leaf and root, Uva Ursi (Arctostaphylos uva ursi) or Couch grass ( Elymus repens) steers it’s action towards the bladder to help with inflammation there; for chronic infection and stagnant lymph I may pair it with Violet, Red root ( Ceanothus Americanus), Burdock or Cleaver’s, depending on the case. When we consider the actions Calendula offers, it’s easy to see how all-purpose (polycrest is the technical term) this herb really is. It can tone and soothe inflamed tissue inside the body or out, it promotes the movement of lymph(and thus toxins) through the system, it provides antioxidants (and thus, supports general wellbeing). Juliette de Bairaclai Levy wrote that calendula is “good heart medicine and provides restorative powers to the arteries and veins” – which makes perfect sense, given the rutin content. These are just a few ideas about working with Calendula; ongoing study, and regular use of this sunny and generous plant will reveal myriad more ways to make use of her medicine. Note to bird-people – my African grey parrot eats a whole flower every day, in season. Preparation: As with all herbs, the method of extraction/preparation will depend on which constituents you’re seeking to emphasize. Most of Calendula’s medicinal and nutritive constituents extract well in water, but resin is not one of them. When you want to ensure the resinous aspects are intact, use an alcohol tincture. I have personally not found glycerin to be an ideal menstruum for calendula, when I administer this herb longterm I use water infusions, with strength of preparation and dosage according to the specific needs of the case. Dosage: Susan Wynn and Barbara Fougeres list a dosage range for water infusion of calendula as ” 5 – 30 grams per cup of boiling water”- a wide range! I generally go by about 2 Tbsps of loose dried herb to 8 ounces hot water. Cover your infusion with a lid (not tightly) or tin foil, and allow to steep about 30 minutes, and then strain and cool. I use 1/4 cup per 20 pounds body weight, and for dogs under twenty pounds, consider adding just a couple of Tbsps at a time. Dosing any herb not only depends on the weight of the animal, but whether the herb is given alone or in formula, and how serious the condition is. I like water infusion for chronic conditions and to add antioxidant support, and use either alcohol or glycerin tinctures for acute issues. I use sunflower and olive oil primarily as a base for my topical preparations (don’t give herbally infused oil internally) and use either the “sunny window” method, or more commonly these days, the heat-method, gently warming the herbal oil over a pot of hot water, for several days. I’m following this entry with one on basic salve making, so there’ll be more detail on the method soon. I’ve also poulticed with calendula, but it’s more likely I make a compress with dogs or cats (horses do much better with poultices!). Compresses entail starting with a stronger infusion than I might use internally – 30 grams of dried whole flower in 8 ounces hot water, covered and left up to four hours. I rarely make infusion for internal use as strong as that. For alcohol tincture, the suggested range is 1/2 to 2 mls per 20 pounds, in divided doses three times daily. You might think about the high end if using alone, and the low end in formula – and don’t use alcohol tincture if a dog has reflux, ulcerative colitis, or liver disease. In those cases use glycerite or water-based infusions. Contraindications/Interactions: None, but I don’t use Calendula with cats, as there is a small amount of salicylic acid in the stem. It *probably* isn’t enough to cause a problem, with occasional use, but I’d rather be safe than sorry. Calendula does possess mild emmenagogue action (stimulates menses) , and so I don’t use it with pregnant animals. Herbalists writing about usage in humans often disagree about Calendula’s safety in pregnancy, but there is not much literature regarding other species. Hence, I again err on the side of caution. It may also not be wise to apply calendula salve to any wound that is not 100% clean – while it’s not as fast-acting as comfrey, calendula does speed up healing time, and there is a risk that infection could be trapped inside a wound or swelling. Ideally, we prefer to bring infection out, not close it in, so this is something to be aware of. I don’t, however, put salve on wounds in the first place, but many do, so take note if you do this that you are not trapping bacteria under the scab.
Calendula in my (badly overgrown) garden. <3 Posted in Blog, Herbs for Dogs | Leave a comment
Holiday Recipes Part One – Turkey loaf, many ways! Posted on December 19, 2016 Seems that everywhere I look, people are baking and starting shopping lists for holiday food – and many are asking me what’s safe to give their dogs, for a special meal, too. Everyone knows I’m a great supporter of feeding a fresh food diet, whether raw or cooked; at the same time I always stress the importance of getting the nutrient content right. I also believe we can bend our rules a wee bit from time to time, as long as we A) don’t overdo it and b) pay attention to a few key aspects of feeding “extras”. Those aspects are, simply, to be aware of the fat content of a special meal, and any food intolerances or special needs our dogs may have. The fat issue is pretty straightforward – any significant change in the fat content of a diet can cause some loose stool and gastric distress, and nobody wants that – plus of course, dogs with pancreatitis or IBD shouldn’t have fatty treats at all. As for ingredients, most healthy dogs can have a treat with gluten once in a while – it’s the chronic overfeeding of it that becomes a problem. Some dogs are actually better with oatmeal, rice or barley in their diet than they are with legumes, but for other dogs, chickpeas and lentils offer health benefits and can be a useful carb source for grain-sensitive dogs. Some dogs don’t do well with either legumes or grains, even glutenfree ones – so it makes sense to look at a special recipe as something that takes those factors into consideration. One of my dogs does very well with legumes but not oatmeal; the other two are fine with oatmeal but not legumes. All three do well with sweet potato but one is sensitive to the amount I use. This probably sounds more complicated that is – so here’s what I’ve done. To make a basic turkeyloaf – a favorite of mine throughout the year made with all kinds of ground meat – I simply combine the following and mix well: 12 ounces ground turkey, raw 3 whole large raw eggs, beaten 1/2 cup cooked weight, 164 grams) peeled, cooked and mashed sweet potato 1 cup regular oatmeal, not instant 1 Tablespoon tomato sauce (I use salt free) 1 – 2 teaspoons dried herb, I use thyme and oregano usually
…and then all you do is beat the raw eggs, and mix in the rest of the ingredients. Place the mixture in a baking dish(I use a standard Pyrex 9 x 5 loafpan) and bake at 350 degrees for about 45 minutes. Cool, slice and serve. This recipe provides 1170 calories for the whole thing, 96 grams of protein with 48.2 grams total fat and 1350 mgs phosphorus. That’s the whole thing. Sliced into 12 servings, which works well for a treat or kibble topper, you get 97.5 calories, 4 grams fat, and 113 mgs phosphorus. I like the tomato paste to get lycopene into my guys, who don’t eat a lot of food sources regularly, and the herbs, depending on which ones I go with provide anti-bacterial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory actions as well. But mostly I love how excited my three are when this comes out of the oven…they adore and never tire of “Mom’s concoctions”. So, a few variations. To make this recipe grainfree, you can substitute either 1 cup cooked quinoa, or well cooked and mashed chickpeas. Or you can use all sweet potato. To make it lower fat, you can omit the 3 eggs and use eggwhite only. Ground turkey, may come in a range of fat content, so be sure to check that too (I used 93% lean for my recipe) . All of these changes, affect the nutrient composition, but this is a recipe to use occasionally as a meal, or you can use it more regularly, as a treat or topper. Even the additions of calcium – you could use a level teaspoon of NOW carbonate, for example, to add 1200 mgs – and beef liver (just 2 ounces, please, pureed) will help fill in missing nutrients,but doesn’t make this a fully balanced recipe for regular use. It does, however, totally rock as a special meal. At Christmas, I use 1/3 – 1/2 cup dried cranberries, and substitute 1/2 teaspoon each dried powdered ginger and cinnamon, for the thyme etc. A very customizable and healthy meal for your fourlegged friends, whatever Holiday you celebrate. Let me know what you tried, and how it turned out. Oh yeah – my cats all love it too, especially without the cranberries. Don’t forget the felines! Happy Holidays!
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Herbal Help for Canine Hot Spots Posted on December 17, 2016 …excerpted from a Plant Healer Magazine article last fall. Hot spots It’s possible that hot spots are THE single most asked-about canine issue I encounter on the net, over 18 years of yahoo, AllExperts, various forums and now Facebook. Hot spots are very nasty to deal with, and the conventional approach is harsh, the natural one not always effective. For me, the lack of efficacy is related to a focus on astringency and topical healing, whereas I like to work with other herbal actions (according to the stage of the wound) and address it internally as well. I hope this approach can be useful for the many who deal with hot spots (believe me, I have been there personally as well as professionally) and offer a more comprehensive set of ideas. First – what are “hot spots?” The veterinary description of hot spots is an “Acute moist dermatitis” caused by a localized overgrowth of the normal bacteria found on the skin. Causes include fleabites or other insect stings, which the dog then licks and licks and creates a moist environment for bacteria to flourish…but a dog may also lick a painful area that is related to muscle or joint injury. Allergic dogs (environmental, flea, food) are most susceptible , but long haired or thick coated dogs, dogs who swim a lot, or obese dogs are also at risk. In many cases, we can find an issue with the immune system underpinning recurrent hotspots, and this needs to be addressed over time, too. To quote Peteducation.com – – hot spots are “ circular lesions, usually found on the head, over the hip and along the side of the chest. They will be moist, raw, inflamed and hairless, and can be quite painful. Animals usually lick, bite or scratch the area, and thus irritate the inflamed skin even more. In fact, hot spots are sometimes called ‘pyotraumatic dermatitis’ because the self-trauma is a major factor in the development of hot spots.” 1
Hot spots are frustrating for the owner and very unpleasant for the dog, and I have some critique of both conventional veterinary management and the popular press idea of what helps. But right here I want to say, this is a condition that can make a dog’s life miserable, so if the spot is large enough – they can spread quite rapidly – the dog is in pain, and the owner is feeling unable to cope, by all means, please go to the vet! Relief for the dog is paramount here….but let’s look at what can be tried, beyond green tea bags and (yikes!) apple cider vinegar. Conventional veterinary approach: The standard veterinary approach here is to trim and shave the surrounding fur, apply a topical disinfectant (such as Nolvesan, or chlorhexidine diacetate) 2 and send the dog home with an Elizabethan collar to prevent licking, and a topical steroidal creme. The dog is often sedated for the procedure, and local anaesthesia may be necessary. The treatment is effective in most cases, but harsh, and will not prevent recurrence, as underlying causes are not addressed. Many vets will recommend a monthly flea preventive such as Advantage (imidacloprid and pyriproxyfen) 3 to prevent the likelihood of another spot arising from fleabites. But all of this involves harsh chemicals that many people seek to avoid, especially if the hot spots are a recurring problem. What then, are the usual holistic recommendations? Standard natural treatment: A quick peruse of the Internet will reveal thousands of pages devoted to natural animal care, and many will address hotspots; few I have seen, however, go much beyond the topical. Looking around for this article I saw a lot of coconut oil, apple cider vinegar and oil of oregano – all of which are popular and in some cases helpful, but more often then not, we are looking at an allopathic approach using milder but less effective treatments than the vet has to offer. I for one just shudder at the thought of putting even diluted apple cider vinegar on an open, extremely raw and painful hot spot; the application of creams, however wholesome the ingredients, don’t work for me either, until the heat has dissipated and the wound healed over somewhat. The very popular green tea bag compress does offer some vulnerary/astringent actions and can be tried up until the point where the hot spot has opened up – then it will simply sting (if less than the vinegar) and incite the dog to lick even more. Topical astringents and salves are the usual prescription for natural support, sometimes essential oils, but I have found this approach rather limited and not often successful in healing up the sore. I would personally never apply essential oil to a hot spot.
What I Do: For me, the first thing to evaluate is how severe the spot is and whether the dog is experiencing some mild to moderate discomfort, which is usually manageable, or in deeper pain, in which case I do encourage a vet visit at least to manage the pain and risk of spreading (some hot spots can grow to very large areas), with more systemic measures to follow. So let’s say this spot isn’t too large, raw or painful, you can first work with it topically, and this may require a little herbal sedative to calm the dog first (depends, of course, on the individual). I keep a tincture bottle on hand with 2 parts each California poppy (Eschscholzia californica) Wood Betony (Stachys betonica) and Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis) and one part Wild lettuce (Lactuca virosa); I’ve found this formula works a treat to calm and steady an anxious dog – if there is still evidence of pain, you can add another one part of Corydalis ( Corydalis yanhusuo). Give 1- 2 mls per 20 pounds body weight. Once the dog is relaxed, have someone hold her head or gently restrain while you trim back the fur all around the area, and then flush the spot with a mild, diluted Echinacea/yarrow/goldenseal rinse. To make this rinse, I use 30 drops of each tincture in a cup of warm (room temperature) distilled water and apply with a dropper. Flush the area and trim back long hairs around the sore if indicated. Keep the dog in an E-collar to prevent licking, and just let it be, at this point. Exposure to air, and the antimicrobial action of the rinse will start the healing process from the outside in. (Note there are many other herbs that could be used, but this is what I have found most effective after treating a whole lot of hotspots.) Now, if the area seems too raw and painful to tolerate even dilute tincture, you can consider making a decoction of Echinacea, Licorice and Goldenseal root, and using this to flush the area. Gotu Kola (Centella asiatica) is superb here as well. (Standard veterinary protocol might suggest Betadine here, diluted in water, and this is not a terrible option by any means – but herbally we can offer more than simple disinfectant here). To make the decoction, add one teaspoon each of the Echinacea, goldenseal and licorice, to 16 ounces of water- bring to a gentle boil cover and simmer 20 minutes, then turn the heat off and allow the decoction to sit for an hour. Cool until room temperature and flush over the hot spot – gently.
Narrow leaf Plantain(Plantago lanceolata) makes a superb vulnerary to use on hotspots, if you happen to have the fresh plant handy! I don’t compress hot spots when they are open, I find it is too uncomfortable for dogs – but gently flushing every hour or so is great…let the area dry out an repeat up to 4 times. You don’t want it to stay wet, just clean it well. Once you have done a few flushes, leave it to dry out, simply leave it alone and monitor. If it begins to heal over, you can apply a powder (not salve or ointment at this point) based on clay, arrowroot, with added Goldenseal, Echinacea, Birch, Licorice, Gotu Kola, Rose petals, Willow bark (all in powder). I have used only one of these or all of them together (according to what I have in stock) and always seen what I consider to be great results (continued healing, reduction of irritation, no need for the vet). I put the powder in a shaker bottle and lightly sprinkle over the (dry) hot spot, don’t pack it over tightly or wet it down. Here is a sample recipe (and you can play around with anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial and analgesic herbs such as the ones listed above.) Remember only to use cultivated Goldenseal, too – while it is a superb herb for dogs and one I could not be without, it is on the at-risk list, so no wildcrafted Goldenseal, please! Powder recipe Powders are super simple to make. I combine about 1/2cup each arrowroot and clay (cosmetic grade) with ¼ cup powdered herb/ ¼ cup contains about 4 level Tbsps of powdered herb,or 12 teaspoons, so you could use 2 Tbsps each of Echinacea and Goldenseal as a basic recipe – or try 1 Tbsp each Goldenseal, Echinacea, Willow bark powder and Licorice root. This powder can also be used all through the coat in summer, to help keep the skin dry and infection at bay. As the hotspot heals over, a salve can be applied too, although I prefer to leave it alone and work on the internal aspects. If you do use a salve, consider one with Calendula, Poplar or Cottonwood resin, and St.John’s wort. It’s a good idea to address the underlying issues internally as well as topically, and start doing so right from the moment you find the hotspot, but don’t expect dietary changes and herbs to kick in right away. The idea is to strengthen the immune system (which can mean dietary changes as well as guthealing herbs and supplements that impact directly on the immune system, such as probiotics and various fungi) reduce inflammation in the skin, help build digestive system health and support liver function. First, you need to ascertain what the contributing factors are, and I always start with diet. Many home prepared recipes for dogs are not nutritionally adequate – while they provide fresher and healthier foods, the nutrient balance, unless carefully considered, is very often out of whack. Especially with home cooked diets. I routinely see low levels of VitaminD, zinc, Vitamins A and E, and more. If you are feeding a home made cooked or raw diet and not supplementing, or relying on guesswork, it could well be time to take a deeper look at the diet. Chronic low levels of essential nutrients can wreak havoc with health, including the immune system. Conversely, a dog fed a high carb, lower quality commercial diet will be susceptible to nutritional issues as well. In any case of recurrent hotspots, evaluate the diet as a starting point. The addition of EFAs, particularly EPA and DHA in the form of fish body oil as well as GLA (gamma-linolenic acid) in the form of borage or evening primrose oil, may be very helpful in reducing skin inflammation. I like to start with fish oils 1000 mg capsules per 20 pounds of bodyweight, making sure the capsules provide a good amount of EPA and DHA, look for 200-300 mgs of DHA per capsule. It’s important to add supplemental Vitamin E with extra PUFAs in the diet (polyunsaturated fatty acids, which include fish oils) but no need to megadose, which can carry some risk of bleeding (Vitamin E is a powerful anticoagulant). I generally use 100IUs of natural Vitamin E for smaller dogs, up to 30 pounds, 200 for medium dogs between 30 and 60 pounds and 400IUs for dogs over 60 pounds, along with the fish body oil (make sure you don’t use cod liver oil, which contains very high levels of Vitamin A).
Borage or evening primrose oil can be added at dose of 50 mgs per kg of Body Weight, but you can go as high as 400. I personally prefer to start at the lower end and build if indicated. I’ve used the high end of the range with some auto-immune disease, but stick to 50 – 100 mgs (per kg BW) with skin issues such as hotspots. If your dog does suffer from food intolerances or environmental allergies, these will need to be addressed with a diet geared to his or her specific sensitivities. Intolerances arise quite frequently with dogs, who are so often fed a diet that consists of the same food all the time. Using novel foods, and emphasizing lower histamine recipes can help reduce the inflammatory response as well. The underlying cause may not be dietary or immune-related, but these often play a role. If pain related to orthopedic or muscular issues is at the root of the licking, this needs to be addressed as well. Finally – in all cases of hot spots, I recommend herbs to support gut and liver health, and some lymphatic support, if there has been infection/medication. We’re looking here at astringent/vulnerary herbs with affinity for the digestive tract, and at anti-inflammatory herbs and alteratives, all of which should be started at the first sign of the spot and continued for about 6 months, along with any other changes. If there is indication of low immune function, such as other recurrent illness/infection I include immune amphoterics as well. Selection as always should be based on the individual, including constitutional type (as these herbs may be given over time) veterinary history, any medications and how the history presents (pattern of hot spots, diet etc). Some common and very helpful choices include Burdock, Calendula, Milk thistle, Plantain, Chamomile, as well as Astragalus, Reishi and Cordyceps (my top choices here) for immune support) and adaptogens such as Schisandra or Milky Oats if there is a stress-factor. This may take some research or working with a herbalist or holistic vet, to optimize diet and personalize the herbs – in my practise, we put a stop to recurrent hot spots with this ongoing approach, and not simply managing the infections as they arise. Formula for recurrent Hotspots ( especially for stressed out dogs) Combine 1/3 cup organic Calendula flowers, ¼ cup organic Wood betony and 2 Tbsps organic Red clover(Trifolium pratense) and Dandelion leaf (Taraxacum officinale). Next, two teaspoons each of cut and sifted organic Burdock root (Arctium lappa) and organic Sarsparilla (Smilax aristolochiaefolia) in 16 ounces water – bring to a gentle boil, cover and simmer 15 minutes. Add one Tablespoon of the calendula mixture, mix well and cover – allow to sit up to 4 hours. Strain and dose at about ½ cup per 20 lbs Body weight, ideally divided into three servings daily, preferably in food. Posted in Blog, Canine Health Conditions | 1 Comment
End of the Year Sale Posted on December 5, 2016 … because I do this every year – for the next ten days I am offering a special price on the two nutrition courses. (The Herbalism course already is at a rockbottom price, until the New year when it will be going up – so it’s staying as is). If you take one of the nutrition courses, you get 15% off, so the Basics of Canine Nutrition, usually $600.00, will be $510.00…and the Formulation course, usually $400.00 will be $340.00. Also – if you wish to take them together, the really big discount is 25% off the pair, so instead of $1000.00 you pay just $750.00 for both. Both courses are taught entirely online, are self paced, fully mentored and you have as long as you need to complete them. There are lively Facebook groups for students to chat and explore the material, too. Several of my grads are going on to set up their own consulting business now with a solid grasp of the science, as well as popular methods of feeding, and outstanding fluency in formulation to distinguish them from the rest. I am very proud of the content and value of these courses, and pleased to offer a seasonal discount, too. For more information, please contact me at
[email protected]. I’ll be glad to answer any questions you may have. To explore the course material or enroll, visit my Courses Page here:http://www.thepossiblecanine.com/product-category/courses I look forward to hearing from you!
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Remember “Cookie of the Week?” Posted on August 19, 2016 …well, that fell by the wayside with all the other stuff I have to get done all the time. However – I do bake cookies and other treats for dogs, and once in a while I hit on a tasty and healthy delight I have to share. Today is one of those days. Fiddling around with this recipe still, but version one has been a very big success so far. Higher protein, gluten free, and with a range of healthy things you can stick in there (or not, as your dog’s tastes prefer). First in a series of posts that won’t require a day off to read all the way through. By popular demand. Amazing Dog Cookies Ingredients ground chicken, about a cup when cooked coconut oil, 4 Tbsps brown rice flour, 1 3/4 cups 2 eggs Optional: fresh blueberries, about 1/3 cup ground ginger, I used a half teaspoon (organic from Mountain Rose Herbs) Consider using bits of kale, oregano or basil (fresh, minced, maybe a tsp of each) dried cranberries instead of the blueberries, or even turmeric, if your dog isn’t already getting a ton of it elsewhere. Method So, all I did was cook the ground chicken in a little water – gently- and drain. Mix with two beaten eggs and the oil; then stir in the flour, ginger and blueberries. I added the liquid just to get to the consistency I was seeking, about a half cup. Mix well, and chill a half hour in the fridge. This is not a firm enough dough to roll out, at least my version wasn’t! I worked quickly with a bowl of water nearby to dip fingers into and made simple rounded shapes. Bake on a parchment-lined cookie sheet, at 350 degrees for about 25 minutes (these took longer than I’d expected). Then just try to keep them away from the furkids! My next batch we will use some garden herbs and a little kale, with turmeric. Dan ate the blueberry versions but is not enthused about fruit. I’m going to add coconut flour, maybe 1/3 of a cup, and we’ll see how that goes. So consider the basic ingredients a template, and experiment! Let me know how it goes….
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Herbs for the Urinary Tract Posted on August 6, 2016 Common Conditions – Lower Urinary Tract Disorders of the Dog Overview To start with, conditions of the urinary system in both dogs and cats are very common, and form a significant percentage of my own clinical cases. Diseases of the bladder and urethra are related to several factors – genetic, nutritional, bacterial/fungal and neoplastic. Because the cat and dog differ significantly in these conditions, metabolic tendencies and nutrient requirements, it’s important to separate the two species and afflictions they experience. Next time, we’ll look at the unique issues facing domestic cats, and then at renal disease, a large topic in itself. In this article I will start this series by talking about lower urinary tract conditions in dogs. As an overview; many of the conditions discussed here will require veterinary care, as they are painful and potentially serious, even fatal. Mild UTI may be cleared up at home if the owner truly knows how to assess the severity – more often than not, this isn’t the case and the animal really should be seen. That said, herbs can play an important role in management/recovery and in many cases, dietary manipulation will be essential. When the two are combined, the results can be dramatic, but this is often a longterm strategy, and the veterinarian is essential for handling acute issues. In my practise, the conditions I see most often with dogs, are infections (sometimes recurrent), incontinence, a variety of uroliths, and bladder cancer. Urinary Tract Infection/Cystitis Many of us have personally experienced a bladder infection/UTI and know too well the pain and misery of it. So, too, UTI in dogs can often be a painful and miserable experience. Symptoms of a urinary tract infection may be subtle or dramatic, depending on the severity of the infection and the animal’s disposition (some will register pain easily, others seem to ignore even major discomfort). Typically, they include the following: Straining to pass urine Blood in urine Dribbling, incontinence Licking the area Increased frequency of urination Soiling in the house\strong unusual odour Increased thirst Signs of pain such as whining, panting, inappetence Weightloss (in chronic, lowgrade cases) Fever
Any one, or combination of these symptoms can arise suddenly, but in many cases are missed by the owner until the infection has gone on awhile. The appearance of any of the above should be a redflag to the alert owner, that the animal may be in considerable discomfort – and, if the infection spreads to the kidney, (pyelonephritis), or if struvite stones develop – quite possibly in danger. Once you see symptoms, the next step is always to have a veterinary evaluation. Your vet will start with a urinalysis, which will detect the presence of white blood cells in the urine, indicating infection. From there, a urine culture will offer more information as to which type of bacteria are present. This is the most precise way of determining which antibiotics to use; whether we like it or not, an immediate course of antibiotics is truly necessary to alleviate suffering. Some veterinarians may also prescribe “empirically” – meaning they will skip the culture and simply prescribe what their own experiences suggest is most likely the cause. The plus side of this is you can spare your dog the ordeal of cytocentesis , the most accurate means of obtaining an uncontaminated culture – performed by inserting a needle directly into the animal’s bladder. The drawback is, and this is common in my own experiences – potentially using an antibiotic that is less than powerful against the specific bacterial strain. Too often I see dogs who have been on multiple rounds of antibiotics, and the UTI persists – with each new drug the immune system (and this innate ability to fight the bacteria) is weakened. It is up to the owner, of course, and the vet to decide which route to follow. With my own dog’s rather nasty UTI a few years ago, I decided not to opt for cytocentesis, but try one round of antibiotics. When his UTI returned a couple of weeks after we had completed it, I was able to entirely clear it with herbs. But at the beginning, seeing my dog suddenly passing blood was not something I felt I could wait on. Many owners feel the same, but do not have the herbal knowledge to follow the antibiotics with herbs, and so enter onto the merry-go-round, of multiple infections and rounds of medication. This is frustrating to see, as I do feel most infections of this nature can indeed be effectively dealt with naturally, once a diagnosis and initial relief has been attained. Causes With UTI (or bacterial cystitis) the bacteria needs to enter the urethra and make its way into the bladder – a short journey in the female, and thus UTI is more common in bitches. Older, intact male dogs, however, are prone to bacterial infections of the prostate. The most common bacterial strain dogs are treated for empirically is e.coli, but there are others: “E. coli, Staphylococcus, and Proteus spp. account for more than half of all cases of bacterial infections of the lower urinary tract. Less common bacteria include Streptococcus, Klebsiella, Enterobacter, Pseudomonas, and Corynebacterium spp.”(1) Popular Alternative Approaches So, conventional veterinary treatment most often starts with antibiotics. The vet will take a urine culture and base the medication of choice accordingly – which can be the end of the issue. In other cases, however, the owner finds herself in a cycle of repeatedly trying different antibiotics, with the vicious circle emerging – the infection is not cleared up, but the immune system of the dog is weakened as the gut lining is adversely affected by the ongoing antibiotics. Often it is at this point the owner will turn to an online “natural” dog group or search for sites that offer alternative options. Many of these are useful, but it always depends on the case. Briefly, these are the popular approaches to UTI, whether chronic or acute. Cranberry D-mannose VitaminC Colloidal silver Apple cider vinegar Probiotics Now, I will often hear from owners who employed one or more of these strategies and experienced great relief – owners who will say these measures were a resounding success. And for me, that’s great to hear. There are also many who work with all of the above and don’t see the lasting results they hoped for – perhaps the symptoms seem relieved but there is still evidence of alkaline urine, pus and blood cells upon analysis – so the infection is less severe but still present. Perhaps the dog clears up for a while and then the infection returns. Perhaps the cranberry, acv and probiotic didn’t do much at all. To understand why these measures may not be the firstline defense against an active UTI – or may be thought of as supporting a herbal protocol, rather than sufficient on their own – we need to look at what they do. All these measures have both value and limitation; cranberry, which is indeed a good supplement to add as a part of a strategy to prevent recurrence, is often used as a sole or first-line defense against active infection, without the more powerful actions of a urinary tract antiseptic such as uva-ursi. Cranberry has been shown to help with the removal of bacteria adhering to the bladder walls, which supports antimicrobial and diuretic herbs – so it definitely has a place here…. but it is not tremendously powerful alone, against active infection. (Note: the juice contains fructose and should never be used with dogs.) I often use cranberry with recurrent infection, and it can help with an active infection alongside herbs, but it is not a powerful single defense against a raging, painful UTI. (2) It should also not be used longterm in a stone-forming dog, due to the high oxalate content. D-mannose is a type of carbohydrate that has been shown, in clinical trials with humans, to help prevent recurrent UTI, only if caused by e.coli; since e.coli is the most common pathogen to cause urinary tract infection in the dog, it’s reasonable to think of using it in any case of recurrent or resistant infection.(3) VitaminC, while it can certainly acidify urine, can also go too far and acidify the ph to such an extent that we run the risk of calcium oxalate crystals developing (if used longterm). I may use Vitamin C short term in dogs who cannot tolerate an increase in dietary protein (which will also acidify urinary ph) or Uva-ursi, or who are already consuming high protein diets. High dose C, or an unbuffered variety, may irritate stomach lining or cause diarrhea in some dogs. If you do use it, think about 200 mgs EsterC for a small dog, 500 for a medium/large breed and up to 1000 for a large/giant – but check the ph with Chemstrips (available at most pharmacies) and don’t over-acidify. Acidification of the urine is not the ideal tactic for managing UTI and it should not be done to excess, or for too long. In addition, acidic urine nullifies the efficacy of the herb Uva-ursi, which is such a potent ally against UTI. I prefer not to acidify urine, but to utilize herbs and clear the infection, hence VitaminC is not usually one of my own choices with canine UTI. Colloidal silver is fraught with potential dangers, including poor absorption of antibiotics and thyroxine, (4) and apple cider vinegar, in my experience, does little on its own, at all for an active, painful infection. Probiotics can be helpful with a wide range of canine conditions and for the most part, I encourage people to use them. Aside from their role in restoring balance to the gut after antibiotics, probiotics can support digestion throughout life, and in turn the immune system. Probiotics play a role in reducing the inflammation that can lead to hyperpermeability (leaky gut) and can help reduce the recurrence of UTI. There are a wide variety of types available, and I encourage people to do their research and decide which strain is right for their dogs. My own approach with UTI, is to first, adjust the diet- if indicated – which in this case means a careful evaluation to ensure all essential nutrients are well supplied, and may also include raising protein levels. So much of what we might see with infection, especially chronic infection, will relate to what a dog is fed on a regular basis. Both commercial and home prepared diets carry potential drawbacks; commercial diets may not be well absorbed, or the dog may not be fed enough of them to cover all nutrient requirements. Home prepared diets that rely on variety and guesswork in formulation are almost certainly low in multiple essential nutrients. Chronic low intake of various nutrients can negatively impact the immune system, and contribute to inflammation, so my first step in addressing chronic/recurring UTI is to assess the diet. Protein may be raised to help bring urinary ph, into the neutral zone (about 6.5 – 7) but not to overly acidify, as discussed above. In addition, simply adding meats willy-nilly to any diet can pose problems over time. I make sure that VitaminD, zinc, other essentials, which are often low in home made raw or cooked recipes, are well supplied, by foods or supplementation..In all cases of UTI, it’s important to keep the dog well hydrated, so encouraging water consumption can be important with the dog who doesn’t drink a lot of water. Typically, a kibble fed dog will drink more than one on a home prepared diet, but it’s good to observe water intake and encourage drinking by adding a little broth or stock to water – just make sure you dump out the water regularly and don’t let bacteria form in the bowl. Herbally, we can think about the following therapeutic goals, and find herbs that supply them and are suited to the individual case. 1) Fight infection with antimicrobials (in this case, urinary tract disinfectants) – Echinacea, Uva ursi, Oregon grape root, Monarda, Usnea 2) Soothe the area and relieve inflammation/pain – demulcent and vulnerary herbs – Marshmallow leaf and root, Slippery elm, Corn silk, Plantain, Licorice root 3) Astringe/tonify the bladder and urethra – Agrimony, Goldenrod, Horsetail, Yarrow 4) Ease pain and associated tension – analgesics, anti-spasmodics – Hydrangea, Crampbark, California poppy 5) Dilute urine to assist flushing bacteria – diuretics – Dandelion Leaf, Cleaver’s herb 6) Support immune function longterm – Echinacea, Astragalus, Cordyceps, other fungi Formulas for Urinary Tract Infection Formulation for UTI should combine the actions listed above, but with a view to the type of infection and stage it is at, as well. An acute infection will benefit from more anti-microbial, more pain relief and demulcency, in most cases, then a lingering, low grade type. It’s wise not to give Uva ursi longterm, I may have an owner stop after 7 days or go as long as 14, depending on the case – for longer term use other herbs with antimicrobial action can be considered. I’ve had good success with Usnea, Oregon grape, Monarda, Elecampane, and Thyme. Pairing any of these herbs with Agrimony and Mallow leaf steers the formula to the bladder and I’ve cleared up not only canine UTI, but many human cases without uva ursi (and many more with, but there are options). Echinacea and uva -ursi, the classic pairing, is often where I start my formula building. This is a great combination of urinary tract antiseptic and immune boosting, and can be very effective on its own; the addition of a demulcent like mallow, and an antispasmodic, analgesic like Crampbark can ease the discomfort considerably, and a diuretic round the formula by helping flush bacteria(this is where cranberry lends some aid, too).. I use alcohol tincture in any animal who is in good overall health, and I dose fairly high, short term. Glycerites can be used in sensitive animals, animals with liver disease (although I actually prefer water-based preparations here) and for longer term usage- I simply dose them at a higher level. For Acute UTI with Pain Animals with acute, painful UTI should always be seen by a vet – but there can be occasions whereby one can’t access care so easily – camping trips,holidays for example, people in isolated living situations. This formula can really help, but it is still imperative to have your dog seen as soon as possible. I also use this, or similar, for dogs who have been treated with antibiotics but the infection returns. In those cases, I generally add one part Goldenseal as well. Echinacea – 2 parts Uva ursi – 2parts Crampbark – 2 parts Marshmallow – 2 part California poppy– 1 part Corydalis – 1 part In alcohol tincture, I generally give ¼ ml 4 times daily for a small dog, under 30 pounds: ½ ml for a dog 30 – 60 lbs and ¾ for a large dog, 60 – 100 lbs. You could give as much as 1 ml 4x daily for a giantbreed. I generally increase by 30 – 50% with glycerites. For chronic UTI with bleeding Agrimony – 2 parts Oregon grape – 2 parts Goldenseal – 1 part Monarda – 1 part Hydrangea – 1 part St.John’s wort– 1 part Mix dried sifted herb together and infuse 2 teaspoons in one cup boiling water, at least 2 hours and preferably four. Strain and ladle over food (small meals, protein-centered) 3-4 times daily. Consider ¼ cup for a small dog, 3-4 times daily; ½ cup for a medium dog and as much as two cups for a large/giant breed, in divided doses. I have also combined all in a tincture blend and given throughout the day, added to small meals. Mild UTI in a senior dog Goldenrod- 2 parts Bidens – 2 parts Echinacea – 1 part Cornsilk – 1 part Hydrangea – 1 part California poppy – 1 part (if there is trouble sleeping) I really prefer glycerite or infusion with older dogs, and I have given this formulation in many ways, including infusion/decoction, glycrite and sometimes a combination of the two. What I like here is the gentle support – uva ursi may be a little harsh for older dogs (even if a geriatric bloodwork had been done recently, things change quickly in seniors) and alcohol tincture, while probably ok, may irritate stomach lining… plus, if this is lingering infection as we often see with seniors, then it will be preferable to avoid alcohol. If additional immune support is called for, I often like astragalus, but a number of herbs could be used and should be chosen, and fatty acids (Omega 3 from fish body oil, in the dog, is the ideal choice) can ease inflammation throughout the body and support healing. As with anything given longterm, select according to the whole history and constitutional type of the dog. The Materia Medica at the end of this article should give some more ideas, but my bottom line is this: 1) Optimize the diet, especially if feeding a low grade kibble or an unsupplemented, ad hoc home made diet..add fish body oil with VitaminE, and/or a source of GLA (gamma-linoleic acid) from evening primrose or borage oil. Higher protein may help acidify urine, but the goal is to ower alkalinity, not create very acidic urine. Chemstrips will give you precise feedback about this and other aspects of your dog’s urine, and are well worth the investment.. 2) Use a herbal formulation that covers multiple actions, and dose it correctly, with acute cases receiving tincture and infusion both, and longterm, difficult-to-resolve cases both infusion and glycerite. 3) Consider probiotics, cranberry and D-mannose, as adjunct therapy to the herbs, in specific scenarios, not as a panacea for all UTI
Uroliths Another common condition in dogs is urolithiasis, or bladder stones. There are several types of stones, but the most common are calcium oxalates, struvites and ammonia urates; recent studies show the incidence of struvites at 39%, oxalates at 41% and urates at 10% or lower (other stones, such as silica and cystine, account for the balance). Bladder stones can be not only intensely painful, but in some cases completely block the urethra and lead to a ruptured bladder. In all cases, uroliths must be taken seriously. And in all cases, dietary intervention is a top priority. Conventional veterinary therapy involves prescription diets, antibiotics, and sometimes surgery. The prescription foods are controversial, but in many cases it’s preferable to utilize them until a correctly formulated recipe can be located using fresh whole foods. These diets usually manage the conditions well enough, but the ingredients used are not nourishing in a holistic way, so we might see an ingredient label that looks like this: “Brewers Rice, Corn Starch, Pork Fat, Egg Product, Powdered Cellulose, Chicken Liver Flavor, Flaxseed, Lactic Acid, Potassium Citrate, Soybean Oil, Calcium Carbonate, L-Lysine, Iodized Salt, Choline Chloride, vitamins (Vitamin E Supplement, Niacin Supplement, Thiamine Mononitrate, Vitamin A Supplement, Calcium Pantothenate, Biotin, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Riboflavin Supplement, Folic Acid , Vitamin D3 Supplement),” (5) It’s easy to see that these diets are formulated to manage the condition and nutrient requirements, but the ingredients chosen are questionable(to put it mildly) for a carnivore…or, really,any species. A nutritionist with experience in these conditions can formulate a fresh food recipe that will not only manage the stones, but support the health of the whole dog, but that is not always easy for the average owner to locate. A home made diet absolutely has to be formulated with the some skill in nutrient manipulation, but using whole meats, poultry, grains as indicated, vegetables and so on. With struvites associated with infection, the goal is to clear the infection as well as dissolve the uroliths and then prevent recurrence; with oxalates and urates, dietary intervention is key. While we can’t dissolve oxalates with diet, dietary management is still key,as it is with urates. It’s important to note too, that a dog can have more than one type of urolith at the same time – again, surgical removal and analysis is really the only way to know for certain.
Dogs of any breed, mix, age, or sex can develop uroliths – but, there are some predisposing factors. Some breeds with a high incidence include the Miniature Schnauzer, Shih Tzu, Bichons Frise, American Cocker Spaniels and the Lhasa Apso. Dalmatians and English Bulldogs are at very high risk for urate stones. Diagnosis: because herbal and especially nutritional therapy differs greatly form one type of stone to another, correct ID of the stone is crucial. Surgical removal is the most accurate, but a skilled veterinarian may be able to take a very good guess based on X-rays, for example. Symptoms of bladder stones are similar to that of UTI but may be more severe – or, some cases are totally asymptomatic, and the stone is only discovered when an Xray or examination for another condition is performed. Typical symptoms include blood in the urine, straining to pass urine, licking the genitals, evidence of pain, cloudy urine. With all uroliths, the rate of recurrence once the stones have been removed is high and the dog should be monitored carefully. In all cases, too, it is important to encourage adequate water intake and ensure the dog has frequent opportunity to urinate. Here is what I do with both herbs and diet, for all three. Struvites Again -the presence of struvite crystals, without concurrent infection is not a cause for alarm. Struvite crystals are present in around 45% of dogs without stones or infection. “Struvite crystals are commonly seen in canine and feline urine. Struvite crystalluria in dogs is not a problem unless there is a concurrent bacterial urinary tract infection with a urease-producing microbe. Without an infection, struvite crystals in dogs are not associated with struvite urolith formation.” (6) When struvite crystals develop into stones, as may happen with prolonged, untreated infection – more aggressive measures are indicated. Standard veterinary measures with diagnosed struvite stones is based on the health of the dog, the severity of the case and other factors, which may include breed tendencies. In any case where it is possible, the protocol is to promote dissolution of the stones using nutritional therapy; this consists of a prescription diet that is low protein, high sodium(to encourage drinking) and restricted in mineral content. Holistic vets sharply disagree with this approach and will usually use a higher protein diet to bring the urinary ph into range, along with limited carbs and somewhat restricted mineral intake. I concur, theoretically anyway, with the latter approach; that said, it can be challenging for the owner to manage on their own, and that is one drawback of a home made diet in this case. If a veterinary prescription diet is used, it’s my opinion this is a short term measure only. Therapeutic goal is to dissolve the struvites and then manage the urinary tract health of the dog proactively from there on in. Herbs that Help Therapeutic goals in managing a dog with struvite uroliths include: Eliminate infection and control recurrence Reduce pain Tonify the bladder (astringents, bladder tonics) Support dissolution of stones (anti-lithics) Maintain a neutral urinary ph With struvite stones, several herbs can provide much assistance with the process of dissolving the urolith. If there is active infection, the herbs for UTI are all relevant; if not (or in addition) the class of herbs knowns as “antilithics” can provide great support. Anti-lithic simply refers to the action of reducing “gravel” or stones and crystals; a few of the more commonly used examples are Gravel Root(Eupatorium purpureum) Stone Root(Collinsonia canadensis) Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens) Wild Carrot(Daucus carota) and Craeteva (Crataeva nurvala). The formulas I put together are similar to the UTI blends, but with some anti-lithic support added to the mix. How much and which one to use is always case-dependent, but these are a few ideas.
Collinsonia canadensis, also known as Stoneroot Formula for Struvite Uroliths One part each of the following (in glycerite) : Stoneroot (Collinsonia Canadensis) Marshmallow Leaf and Root(Althea officinalis) Crampbark (Viburnum opulus) Bidens (Bidens frondosa) Alternately, use Gravelroot in place of (or along with) the Stoneroot, Cornsilk in place of or alongside the Mallow, Wild Yam in place of the Crampbark and Goldenrod or Yarrow in place of Bidens. Yes, there are nuances (and some significant ones) of difference here, but the core idea is to use an antilithic, a demulcent, an antispasmodic and an astringent. I have used myriad combinations of these herbs and – alongside dietary adjustments – always seen significant improvement. Oxalates Calcium oxalate stones are another common type of urolith in dogs, and can be more difficult to manage than struvites, in many cases. Several factors predispose dogs to developing oxalates; genetics are chief amongst them. Unlike struvites, these stones cannot be dissolved and must be surgically removed. Dietary measures are essential and differ from our approach with struvites. Briefly, dietary management of oxalates entails the following: Restriction of high oxalate foods Monitor mineral intake – calcium, magnesium, and phosphorus Restrict sodium Avoid Vitamin C supplements or giving VitmainD3 above requirement levels Encourage drinking – hydration is key Bcomplex, Vitamin E and fish oil can all be useful Avoid herbs with high mineral, Vitamin C or oxalate content Calcium Oxalate stones cannot be dissolved as we may be able to do with struvites and urates; they need to be surgically removed. For this reason I don’t make use of antilithics in the same way as with struvites; my focus is adding some herbs with anti-lithic action alongside soothing demulcents like marshmallow root and leaf, and gentle diuretics such as dandelion leaf, and working with diet to minimize risk of recurrence. With dandelion, I prefer glycerite – dandelion leaf contains about 100 mgs of calcium per cup, not all of which will even be bioavailable for the dog, but I prefer to be careful especially with small dogs. It’s critical to be mindful of mineral content with dogs who have calcium oxalate stones. I often use Stoneroot with Cornsilk and/or Marshmallow(root), a little dandelion and something along the lines of Kava kava(Piper methysticum) to help with pain. Stoneroot is another herb not made a lot of use of in veterinary circles and I love working with it; it’s actually one of my staple herbs. Craetava, also knowns as Varuna in Ayrurvedic medicine,(Crataeva nurvala) is not a herb I encounter in many places, in my herbal meanderings, it was brought to my attention by Susan Wynn and Barbara Fougeres in their book Veterinary Herbal Medicine. I include it here as a potential antilithic as well as restorative to the bladder. So, a formula for Oxalates (assuming dietary management is in place) could look like this: Stoneroot – 2 parts Cornsilk- 1 part Dandelion – ½ part Hydrangea- ½ part I’d use glycerite or alcohol tincture here as indicated by the dog’s overall profile (age, health, digestion) or an infusion would also be great, if the dog will accept it. With this formula, I might think about adding a mallow root infusion separately, especially during times when pain or straining was evident. To sum up, always place oxalate content of foods and herbs at the centre of your therapy for calcium oxalate stones in dogs. High oxalate foods we should limit for dogs include sweet potato, dark green leafy vegetables, beets, sesame seeds, quinoa. Herbs high in oxalates include turmeric, cinnamon, coriander, fennel seed and dried ginger. Lamb’s quarters (Chenopodium album) Wood sorrel (Oxalis acetosella) Sheep sorrel and common sorrel (Rumex acetosa) are exceedingly high as well. A full list of oxalate content (foods)can be found here: http://www.denvernephrology.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/Oxalate2008.pdf Urates Urate stones are a type of urolith composed of uric acid, and associated with a derangement in purine metabolism. Purines are an organic compound found in both plant and anima tissue; as they break down in the process of digestion, they form uric acid. Urate stones cannot be identified via radiographs, so an ultra sound is needed for diagnosis; however, some breeds are very affected, with Dalmatians at the top of the list ( as many as 30% of males will develop urates) but Black Russian terriers, English Bulldogs and Parson Russell terriers are also at -risk breeds. Dogs can also develop urate stones in relation to a condition called portosystemic shunt – any dog with a shunt should be fed a preventive diet and monitored for stones throughout life. “A portosystemic shunt (PSS) or liver shunt is a condition where the normal flow of blood, to and through the liver, is markedly reduced or absent. Normally, blood returning from the puppy’s digestive tract is routed to the liver through the portal vein. The blood flows through the liver and then exits the liver and joins the venous blood flowing back to the heart. A liver shunt is a blood vessel that connects the portal vein with the main systemic blood stream. This causes the blood to bypass the liver. Without adequate blood flow to the liver, the puppy’s body cannot thrive. “ (7) Management is dietary, with a low-purine diet of utmost importance. This can be a challenge for the average owner, and so many dogs with these stones end up longterm on a prescription diet. Home made diets can be raw or cooked but must feature low purine foods as well as meet nutrient requirements such as calcium, VitaminD, linoleic acid. Foods high in purines – liver, sardines, kidney – should never be fed and the diet should be built around foods on the low end of purine content. Herbal protocol is the same as with oxalates. Incontinence Incontinence is such a common complaint, and not always limited to senior dogs. Sometimes it manifests as a steady, constant dribbling – other times a flooding while asleep, or the problem may be cyclical – with the dog being fine for a few days and then an “accident” in the house – any way it manifests, it’s unpleasant for human and dog alike. There can be a range of causes, incontinence may be related to a number of conditions, and any effective herbal therapy will start with a correct determination of cause. Some of the more common causes include: -Urinary tract infection (and the problem clears when the infection is treated) -Bladder stones -Structural defects -Prostate disease -Spinal cord problems -Polydipsia ( dog is drinking excessively, perhaps related to high sodium food, or to a condition like diabetes) -Neurological problems (CCD, canine cognitive dysfunction) – Behavioural (hyper-excitement, fear) -Hormonal changes – so-called “spay incontinence” or a weakened sphincter related to low estrogen
When your dog starts to dribble/leak urine, the first step is to have your veterinarian assess him or her – check kidney function, thyroid, check for UTI – in general rule out these causes. If, as is often the case, the diagnosis is spay incontinence, you can help pinpoint any contributing factors by carefully observing your dog – keeping a journal if need be, to determine the pattern. And thus tip you off to possible contributing factors. If your dog has, for example, nerve damage or osteoarthritis, these issues may be contributing factors and you will need to address them along with working on the bladder directly. Neurological problems associated with advanced age can be addressed with diet, herbs and veterinary medications as well. Too often, I see mature and senior females with simple incontinence related to spaying, placed on Propalin or stilbesterol when natural measures can help so much. So, what can be done for spay incontinence? First, it’s important to understand what this condition is and how the dog is physically affected. Bitches who have been spayed will often start to lose bladder/sphincter tone when hormone production is impaired. And so it seems that using phystoestrogenic herbs would be the best way to address the problem at it’s root, but in practise this doesn’t turn out to be the case. The standard veterinary approach is usually either the drugs Proin or Propalin, which carry some truly terrifying side effects : “The most commonly reported side effects for dogs taking Propalin, which mimic the results of excessive stimulation of the sympathetic nervous system include: anorexia, aggressive behaviour, restlessness, irritability, tremors, tachycardia, cardiac arrhythmia, hypertension, and urinary retention. “(8), or estrogen, in the form of stilbesterol. Both these approaches do help, but in the case of stilbesterol there is also a risk of thrombocytopenia, among other things: “Treated dogs are susceptible to bone marrow suppression from estrogen, typified by early thrombocytopenia and potentially fatal aplastic anemia. Hematopoietic toxicity is rarely seen in cats. Other adverse effects seen in dogs include alopecia, cystic ovaries, cystic endometrial hyperplasia, pyometra, prolonged estrus, and infertility.” (9) Clearly, there are drawbacks to both of these approaches, although I have on occasion used stilbesterol with geriatric females who were completely incontinent or when herbal measures were not offering the level of support we needed. But I’ve also seen on numerous occasions, early administration of herbs either slow the beginnings of incontinence considerably, or completely prevent its development. It’s a good idea to start an older female on these herbs before the problem starts – once it has, you need a few weeks to see improvement and those weeks can be difficult. If you can use a diaper, feed smaller meals (more nutrient dense/lower volume overall) and limit water before bedtime, that can help. Naturally, avoid diuretic herbs during this time! The mechanism behind loss of tone is hormonal, so many ask why not use so-called estrogenic herbs such as Red Clover (Trifolium pratense) and approach the problem that way. In practise I have found that phytoestrogenic herbs alone exert a relatively mild in effect, whereas working directly on the muscle/bladder tone and health provides more dramatic results. In addition, many herbs with demonstrated estrogenic actions should not be fed either generically nor longterm. The diet can and should be supplemented with appropriate herbs and foods with demonstrated phytoestrogenic actions; while soy is not an appropriate food for dogs, I like to include lentils and chickpeas in small amounts in home made diets, and ground flax is an excellent source of lignan, with ground sesame seeds also providing some. Keeping the intestinal tract healthy will aid absorption of plant compounds such as isoflavones and lignans, that offer some estrogenic action. In short – my approach is to support bladder tone and add *some*estrogenic herbs and foods as indicated. Dogs are carnivores and prone to digestive sensitivities when fed a lot of plant matter, so each case needs to be individually evaluated. One formula for spay incontinence might look like this; glycerite is ideal for longterm use. One part each: Agrimony Mallow Leaf Yarrow Goldenrod Red clover I like to shake this formula up from time to time; other herbs to consider include Cornsilk, Bidens, Couch grass, Plantain and Crataeva. Avoid diuretics, overly warming herbs and don’t use the Clover if your dog has any kind of bleeding disorder. I have personally found evening primrose oil very useful in these cases as well. Susan Wynn likes Vitex for females and saw palmetto for males, but I treat all prostate disorders somewhat differently and may or may not include Vitex in a formulation. NOTE: incontinence related to prostate issues will be covered in another article! Bladder Cancer Bladder tumours in dogs account for about 2% of all reported neoplasias. The most common type is TCC, or transitional cell carcinoma, and as with human cancers, early detection is key. Breeds at risk include Scottish terriers, West Highland White terriers, Beagles and Shetland Sheepdogs. Females are more frequently afflicted than males and toxin exposure is a risk for any breed. “Exposure to topical insecticides and herbicides, obesity, cyclophosphamide administration and particular types of breed are believed to be the probable risk factors. In a vast majority of studies, female predilection has been found to be a predominant factor.” (10) The majority of dogs with TCC are treated with NSAIDS and chemotherapy (piroxicam is a drug of choice with or without chemotherapy, but there are others). In one study, survival time with NSAIDS alone was 195 days while NSAIDS and chemotherapy gave about 300 days. Recently, the chemotherapy drug vinblastine has been shown to put about 35% of dogs with TCC into remission. Whatever treatment an owner decides to utilize, will greatly influence the herbal protocol; as with all cancers, a high fat, moderate protein and lower carbohydrate diet is considered beneficial, but not every dog does well especially digestively, with this approach. Diet, herbs according to the case are always important with cancer but vary greatly according to the case. With bladder cancer, we can think about adding demulcents and antispasmodics to ease discomfort and bring some anti-inflammatory actions to the area. Marshmallow root and leaf, Crampbark, and Hydrangea are all useful.. I like to add Agrimony, Potentilla or Shepherd’s Purse if there is bleeding and any number of nervines if there is anxiety. I covered a fair bit about cancer, both nutrition and herbal support, in my canine cancer article, and much of that information is applicable here. Home made diet(if well formulated) with higher fat, a high presence of Omega3 fatty acids, minimal carbohydrates but always some in the form of fresh vegetables, legumes, and seeds such as quinoa and buckwheat; mushroom polysaccharides, herbs to support the immune system, control inflammation, support pathways of elimination and of course, support the specific organ or system affected. In the case of bladder cancer, a full history is necessary to address nutritional problems, issues related to veterinary treatment, and other potential contraindications, but we can look to utilizing herbs with affinity for the urinary tract,that soothe, reduce inflammation and help stop bleeding as part of the overall protocol. Urinary Tract Materia Medica There is a lot of crossover with herbs; listing them under primary actions is just to give an idea of how I might use them in formula I have seen a wide variety of combinations “work” especially with UTI, but it’s important to consider length of time you will use the herb, oxalate and purine content if using with uroliths, and energetics. This list is just to give some general ideas and an overview of the classics.
Bearberry -(Arctostaphylos uva-ursi) a profoundly important herb to know for urinary tract isues with dogs Antimicrobials Uva Ursi (Arctostapholys uva-ursi) A potent antimicrobial, Uva ursi is probably THE urinary tract disinfectant of choice. Arbutin needs an alkaline environment to be effective so it’s best to use uva- ursi without urinary acidifiers. Limit to 7 -14 days usage, depending on amount used. Oregon grape (Mahonia aquafolium) Almost all my formulas for UTI contain Oregon grape -especially the lingering kind we so often see with canines. Both antimicrobial and hepatic, Oregon grape adds to the spectrum of infection-fighters and is very safe for dogs. Usnea (Usnea barbata) Usnic acid is a potent antibiotic compound ,and while much of usnea’s popular usage focuses on respiratory infection, I’ve included it in many UTI formulas for dogs. There is a little controversy regarding the safety of longterm/high dose use of Usnea, with some reports of liver toxicity related to isolated, high dose usnic acid, not the whole lichen – in my view, the same is true of Tylenol, and it is nowhere near as useful medicinally as usnea. I often use echinacea and usnea together, or if there is autoimmune disease, usnea is the choice (with monarda and Oregon grape). To be extra safe, don’t use with known liver disease or for more than 7 days. I also tend to reserve usnea for more severe infections. Monarda (Monarda spp) Not always a plant we see listed in classic urinary herbs, but Monarda has been very helpful in my house (we grow it and always have a good supply) probably in part due to the thymol content, antibacterial compound associated with them. Monarda is also relaxing, which can help a lot with tension associated with pain and straining to urinate. Very safe and very helpful. Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens) antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antilithic – really a specific for UTI and struvite stones. Immunomodulators/stimulants Echinacea (Echinacea angustifolia, purpurea) Echinacea’s immunostimulant actions are more than well documented and often called for with infection. Many people believe that you need to superdose Echinacea and it is only useful at the start of an infection – I use moderate doses all through the UTI and into recovery, and see excellent results. I am often able to clear infection that multiple rounds of antibiotics did not, with echinacea, as part of the formula. As with humans, Echinacea is contraindicated for dogs with auto-immune disease. Astragalus (Astragalus membranaceus) generally included in immune support for chronic UTI and with cancer. Especially good for seniors and dogs with internalized stress and heart disease. I don’t use astragalus if fever is present, but then if there’s a fever I recommend immediate veterinary care. Astringents Agrimony (Agrimonia eupatorium) Agrimony is a premier urinary tract astringent without side effects, and is added to formulas for UTI, some uroliths and incontinence. While some authors comment that agrimony can be interchanged with any rose-family astringent herb, I feel there is an affinity here for the urinary tract and so generally prefer agrimony in my formulations. You could of course try potentilla etc as well. Goldenrod (Solidago canadensis) Solidago is underused in veterinary herbalism and that’s a shame. Wonderful with UTI, struvites, even bladder cancer, Goldenrod is astringent, anti microbial and anti-inflammatory…one of our most important urinary tract herbs, along with many other applications. Horsetail (Equisetum arvense) Horsetail is astringent, diuretic and anti-hemorrhagic – useful in UTI, but also a very rich source of silicon, so my preference is not to use with silica uroliths and use in formulation only with incontinence, due to some diuretic effects. Yarrow (Achillea Millefolium) It’s hard to know where to place Yarrow in a list like this – actions include antibacterial, astringent, antispasmodic, antiinflammatory and diuretic. My only reservation with yarrow for dogs is a higher than usual incidence of allergic reaction, and so I use it internally only after a skintest. Otherwise, generally a go-to herb for UTI and may be useful with spay incontinence as well. Diuretics Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) Dandelion leaf is a standard addition to many urinary tract formulas, it is more diuretic than the root, so helps flush urine and the unwanted bacteria out, without the potassium depletion of veterinary drugs such as Lasix. I prefer it to Cleaver’s with UTI, but might mix with Cleaver’s if a need for more lymphatic support arises. Demulcents Marshmallow (Althea officinalis) The ultimate demulcent, I like marshmallow root and leaf both in my formulations for urinary tract infection. Soothing, anti -inflammatory, mildly immune stimulating, I like to use glycerite or alcohol tincture of the leaf in formula and give cold infusion of the root separately. Corn Silk (Zea mays) Demulcent, mildly diuretic and anti-lithic, Cornsilk is both safe and effective with uroliths and UTI , as well as in formulas for general bladder health. Antilithics Gravel Root (Eupatorium purpurea) This is one of the go-to herbs with bladder stones, and I do make use of it, but only after careful assessment of the case. Not sure if this is a “dog thing”, because several of my distinguished herbal friends make extensive use of Gravel root with human stones, but I have several times observed this herb involved in cases where stones were expelled more quickly than is safe or certainly, comfortable for the dog (and these cases did include antispasmodics). I use Gravel root less than Stoneroot , or in formulation, chiefly because I have never seen this effect with Stoneroot. Stoneroot (Collinsonia canadensis) I think it was about 8 years ago I started to work with Stoneroot in a number of applications, impressed and intrigued by the wide variety of actions and applications I was reading..even thought some herbalists give mixed reviews. I was looking to work with a herb that could be used like Gravelroot, but perhaps a little gentler, after three separate stories (2 involving Dalmatians) involving Gravelroot and painful, difficult passing of stones…and this has turned out to be it. I may start off with just Collinsonia and add Gravelroot over time if we don’t see results, but most of the time it’s amazingly effective. One of my own can’t-be-without herbs, for this and other uses. Anti-inflammatories Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) With UTI, the main actions we seek from licorice are its ability to significantly reduce inflammation and also the cooling demulcency it adds. There are multiple contraindications for licorice, including hypertension, liver or gallbladder disease and some types of renal failure. When in doubt with a dog, don’t use licorice. Wonderful for easing inflammation if it’s the right herb, but by no means the only choice for this action. Nervines St.John’s wort (Hypericum perforatum) included here to help with pain and anxiety in dogs who may also have some spinal cord issues or arthritis, or are constitutionally excitable and reactive. Kava Kava (Piper methysticum) Especially for anxious dogs who cannot relax and lick the area compulsively, and where there is likely pain. California poppy ( Eschscholzia californica ) probably my favorite, combined with crampbark, for pain with uroliths and/or UTI. Calming and gentle, the right dose can help an uncomfortable dog sleep, but not so deeply they pass urine. Anti-spasmodics, analgesics CrampBark (Viburnum opulus) I use viburnum in any formula where there is evidence of pain, and alongside antilithics to help prevent spasmodic expulsion of stones too large to pass the urethra. Corydalis (Corydalis yanhuso) – Lesley Tierra writes that “corydalis is the most valued herb for pain in Chinese medicine”(11) . Now,many herbs provide analgesic actions, I have just worked mostly with Corydalis in fairly acute cases,and seen it’s efficacy. Using the same formulation, but adding ½ to 1 part Corydalis, provided noticeable relief to both cats and dogs with discomfort due to uroliths and infection(as well as other causes). I’ve used higher doses in a simple formula for injured animals and never seen unwanted effects at all (including cats). Next time, I’ll look at feline lower urinary tract disease, differences between cats and dogs with these conditions, and an overview of canine and feline renal disease and management.
Endnotes
1. Merck Veterinary Manual, http://www.merckvetmanual.com/pethealth/dog_disorders_and_diseases/kidney_and_urinary_tract_disorders_of_dogs/infectious_diseases_of_the_urinary_system_in_do 2. http://cid.oxfordjournals.org/content/38/10/1413.full 3. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23633128 4 . http://www.mayoclinic.org/healthy-lifestyle/consumer-health/expert-answers/colloidal-silver/faq-20058061 5. Hill’s u/d http://www.hillspet.com/en/us/products/pd-canine-ud-dry
6. Merck Veterinary Manual(online): http://www.merckvetmanual.com/pethealth/dog_disorders_and_diseases/kidney_and_urinary_tract_disorders_of_dogs/infectious_diseases_of_the_urinary_system_in_dogs.htm 7. Liver shunt description: http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+2103&aid=3605| 8. “The most commonly reported side effects for dogs taking Propalin, which mimic the results of excessive stimulation of the sympathetic nervous system include: anorexia, aggressive behaviour, restlessness, irritability, tremors, tachycardia, cardiac arrhythmia, hypertension, and urinary retention.” In my practise I have seen this reaction (some combination of symptoms on countless occasions) http://www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/pharmacology/systemic_pharmacotherapeutics_of_the_urinary_system/urinary_incontinence.html 9.Merck Veterinary Manual 10. wearethecure.com http://wearethecure.org/learn-more-about-canince-cancer/canine-cancer-library/urinary-bladder-cancer/ 11. Healing with the Herbs of life, Lesley Tierra Resources Small Animal Clinical Nutrition, 5th edition Veterinary Herbal Medicine, Susan G. Wynn DVM, and Barbara Fougeres, DVM Medical Herbalism, David Hoffman Herbal Therapy and Supplements, David Winston Combining Western Herbs and Chinese Medicine, Jeremy Ross Christopher Hobbs on Usnea barbata Healing with the Herbs of Life, Lesley Tierra Posted in Blog, Canine Health Conditions | 7 Comments
I Can’t Stress it Enough… Posted on June 23, 2016 Response this morning to a few emails I’ve received – friendly questions, so I’m glad to respond. The jist of it all is, my recipes may be balanced and cover the essentials, but where are the Superfoods? Isn’t it boring to feed just sweet potato or quinoa, chicken, liver, heart, maybe some sardines or salmon, maybe some eggs – and then supplements? Ok – first, we are talking proactive diets here, not therapeutic.; therapeutic diets are often very restricted and our topic today is regular recipes for dogs who have no major health problems. What I provide, on the few recipes I have shared publicly and the ones I do for clients – is foundational nutrition – meaning that yes, the food ingredients are used in specific amounts to ensure that the diet covers all the necessities of life (and make no mistake, vitamins, minerals, fatty and amino acids etc ARE necessities, so we account for them first) with macronutrients calculated to best suit the individual dog. That means that Dog A does best with more carb and less fat, and Dog B, is exactly the opposite. And then a simple series of calculations based on the best science we have, tells me what we need to add in the form of supplementation – again, for a healthy dog this should be fairly minimal, and depends on how much food the dog can eat( more food = fewer supplements) and whether the diet is raw or cooked, to name the most important factors. So we end up with 2 or 3 balanced recipes that produce good stool, are well digested, maintain weight and provide all the individual requirements, from A to zinc. We use simple, accessible ingredients – and we see radiant health as a result.
Gratuitous puppy pic, especially for my Frenchie friends. But then people want to add raspberries and hemp seeds and artichoke hearts and pheasant eggs and mangoes and maca… They’ve read on a popnutrition site these are great for dogs and how can my (boring) recipe be ok without them? My full response to this will be posted soon, and emphasized in the book – your dog maybe ok having all these foods, but let’s be clear that they are not foundational – meaning they aren’t going to provide significant amounts of most essential nutrients – and some, like chia seeds, may just pass through undigested; their main purpose is to provide beneficial phytonutrient/chemicals – meaning things like flavonoids or other types of antioxidants (I’ll skip the biochemistry in this long post) that support and benefit health. On that level I am happy to have you add them. Every recipe I send out has the instructions to get the dog adjusted on it,in other words feed for a few weeks! and then add pulped or cooked (important to aid assimilation of nutrients in plants) veggies and fruits as tolerated, in season and in rotation (another one of those triplicities I’m so fond of). So yes, by all means add fun and healthy foods, but….. A) please know what those foods actually provide B) don’t use anything that upsets your dog’s digestion….and C) think in terms of simple, everyday veggies and fruits, not just the exotic and so-called “superfoods”. I routinely add (organic) apples, carrots, turnip, assorted greens, broccoli and more to my guy’s foods, only rarely do they get exotic fruits and veggies, and often, they don’t like them anyway. I’ve written about veggies and fruits before, what they contain (some may be contraindicated for your dog) and how much to use…so by all means,add them. I always do. But don’t RELY on apples and banana and melons and broccoli and asparagus for nutrients, think of them as a little boost in that department, and a BIG boost in the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, cancer-protective department.
Yes, we’re going to talk about all of these in future blog posts. Think of nutrition as building a house, and your foundation is the three rules of good diet: the food must… 1. cover all essentials(because imbalances carry consequences and sometimes, serious ones) 2. Use the best available foods to provide these nutrients and supplement where needed 3. Agree with your dog in measurable ways – good stool, good weight, glowing health. And this requires a well balanced recipe to start with, which may be actually quite simple. And then you can experiment with fun foods and trendy items, because you know you have their needs covered. I want you to know, in my main work as a therapeutic nutritionist, over and over and over I have seen kidney and liver values improve, insulin levels stabilize, bladder stones stop recurring, immune function improve and much more, all with dietary changes that were based on adjustment of nutrients. (Yes, herbs help immensely too, but my method is to work with diet first, see how far we can go and then add herbs accordingly – unless it is an urgent situation of course). When you see the power of nutrient manipulation in sick dogs, it cannot help but lead you to respect the importance and power of correct balance in everyday diets. And never mind the tougher cases, all the time I see someone who has been feeding raw with great results (stopped itching, helped bowel issues) and now the dog has some problem she doesn’t know how to fix. Analysis of the diet shows a few deficiencies – we add foods or supplements to cover them- and the issue resolves. You simply cannot study nutrition and then work with thousands of cases and not place primary value on nutrients first.
Many types of bladder stones can be well managed with dietary manipulation – one of many conditions we know to respond well to nutrient adjustments. So I am not saying, at all, don’t have fun, don’t make guava/blueberry/coconut popsicles for your dog, don’t feed trendy fun things ever. I’m saying – don’t rely on these foods – or rotation! For adequacy and excellence in a diet. Think about that house foundation and about the three rules of good nutrition – and provide the necessities. Upcoming series on home cooked diets will highlight the great individuality between a healthy dog with a robust digestive system, who can handle a lot of foods, and the needs of a sensitive dog who requires some calorie restriction, and a few cases in between. I hope to drive home my message of individuality, open-mindedness, and nutrients balance. In a fun, side-order-of- kimchi, kind of way. Up next: Home cooked recipe series; Are Superfoods really BS?; How to choose supplements – fact vs hysterical fiction. Check back often and don’t forget to sign up for the Newsletter. Posted in Blog, Canine Nutrition | Leave a comment ← Older posts
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